Style snapshot: A guide to the sessionable yet contemplative ESB

High Park’s Across the Pond ESB. Supplied photo

WHAT IS IT?

A top fermented ale just that little bit stronger and darker than a typical pub strength English Bitter, among the stronger offerings from English breweries, but average for American craft beer.

DANGER LEVEL

Expensive pub session possible

GLASS

Nonic pint

STYLE STATS

ABV: 4.6-6.2%
IBU: 30-50
Colour: Gold to dark amber
Body: Medium full
Bubbles: Somewhat sedate (on cask)

ORIGIN STORY

In the 1970s, Fullers wanted to break out and make something Special. Extra Special. Their ESB, the progenitor of the style, was nearly a full percent stronger than their other offerings and was a winter seasonal. Although Fullers’ ESB still exists, it is not considered a modern ESB as American brewers somewhat simplified the complexity of the malt bill in favour of toasted malt verging into dried fruit and toffee. 

DRINK WITH

• A Scotch egg
• Lentil and mushroom pie
• An entire platter of fried whitebait

WHY DOES IT TASTE LIKE MARMALADE?

The British, in their infinite wisdom, have doubled up the flavours of beer and teatime, using English hops like East Kent Goldings and Slovenian hops like Styrian Goldings to create notes of orange pith, orange pekoe tea, and the gentle greenery of hedgerows that layer above honey, biscuits, toasted bread, treacle, and currants. Think of it as the long dark teatime of the beer world.

SIX MUST-TRY ONTARIO ESB:

Dark Streets of London ESB, Clifford Brewing

Extra Special Bitter, Flora Hall Brewing

ESB, C’est What Durham Brewing

Across the Pond ESB, High Park Brewery

Dragonslayer ESB, Spearhead Brewing Co.

Monty ESB, Great Lakes Brewery

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