Recipe: Oyster mushrooms with corn custard

Paired with Black Bellows Ball Peen Nitro Stout

Oyster mushrooms with corn custard. Lucien Command photo

Lucien Command—owner of Duff Pies—was born in Geneva, Switzerland but is originally from the south of France. Growing up he was surrounded by food – his mom owned a restaurant and everyone in his family was either a chef or butcher, “Every aspect of my life was ruled by cooking,” he says. As a kid, he practiced his skills by attempting the recipes in his mom’s cookbooks. What makes this recipe special for Command is its minimal food waste, “You use every single part of the corn. Stock, kernels, juice! With all the waste in today’s world, this is a great way to waste less.”

The beauty of a nitro stout like Ball Peen by Collingwood’s Black Bellows Brewery can be found in its rich flavour that coats the entirety of your mouth. With a large fluffy head that leaves a trail of milky bubbles on the glass, it’s impossible to drink this beer without daydreaming of crisp autumn leaves and cozy sweaters. Often in beer pairings, one looks for a combination that will highlight each other’s differences—opposites attract, after all! However, for this pairing, the smoothness of Ball Peen reflects the light and creamy indulgence that is this Oyster Mushrooms and Corn Custard dish. Both are lush and rich without being overpowering. The two, when enjoyed together, create a pairing that is elevated, decadent, yet approachable.   —Sabryna Ekstein

Chef Lucien Command created this dish to use every part of the corn cobs, minimizing food waste.

Tools needed

• Lemon juicer

• Cheesecloth

• Blender or food processor


• 3 or 4 cobs of corn

• 4L water

• 10 to 12 oyster mushrooms

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• Salt and pepper

• Thinly sliced radish

• Thyme

• Cilantro


Serves 2

Corn Custard

1. Start by shaving the kernels from the cobs of corn. Reserve a cup of kernels, and the naked corn cobs, and set aside. Blend the remaining kernels until it has a chunky consistency (approximately 10-20 seconds).

2. After placing a cheesecloth over a bowl, strain the blended corn mixture through the cloth using your hands. This will require some elbow grease! Discard the juiced kernels.

3. Transfer the corn juice to a small pot and stir constantly with a spatula over medium-high heat. Continue stirring until the juice becomes thick and creamy – custard consistency. Once reduced and thick, put on a lid and set aside.

Crispy Mushrooms

1. Preheat oven to 450F.

2. In a bowl, coat the mushrooms with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Transfer to a baking tray and cook for 10 to 12 minutes. When the timer goes off, flip the mushrooms. Cook for another 5 to 7 minutes if you like a crispy yet tender consistency or cook for 10 minutes for a chip-like resemblance (umami bomb!).

Corn Stock

1. In a large pot add the reserved shaved cobs from earlier and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and let the mixture simmer for at least one hour. Strain and discard cobs.

To serve

1. In a pot add the reserved kernels and sauté over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Be careful not to burn the kernels.

2. Add one tablespoon of your corn stock to deglaze, followed by immediately adding the corn custard to the pot. Stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper if needed. Consistency should be creamy.

3. Spoon into a bowl and drizzle over a bit of olive oil. Add the crispy mushrooms. To garnish, top with sliced radishes, thyme springs and some cilantro leaves.

When naming beers after hammers, you could have Sledge or Claw. Ball Peen: The Metalworker’s Hammer.

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